What to do in Kep. Pagoda Phnom Sorsir and White Elephant Cave
The architecture of modern Buddhist pagodas of Cambodia, unfortunately, is not very diverse. For the most part, it looks like they all embody the same project, and, with rare exceptions, are similar. Therefore, the appearance and appeal of the temple depend, first of all, on the place where it is located.
There are prayer “places of power” in which people worshiped deities for many centuries. Most of these places are concentrated in the mountains, closer to the sky, away from the roads and settlements. Even the low mountains surrounding Kep are a concentration of amazing places, because here is the Samathi Pagoda with the center of Vipassana, the cave temples of Kampong Trach Wat and Phnom Chhngok.
And one more unusual temple lurking on the rocks surrounding Kep is Phnom Sorsir, as well as the spelling of Phnom Sorsia or Phnom Sor Sear. Here is White Elephant Cave, the length of which is several hundred meters.
The temple is located very close to Kep, it is only a few kilometers from the statue of the White Horse installed at the entrance to Kep. On the ring with the White Horse, turn left towards Kampot and drive about two kilometers to the tourist sign on a green background with the inscription “Phnom Sor Sear Pagoda”. After this, we turn right into the arch. The road is dirt, but, fortunately, to the temple to go only a couple of kilometers among the picturesque rice fields.
At the turn in front of the temple, an equestrian statue unexpectedly meets us. The monument is gradually overgrown with trees and there is no one to free the frozen warrior from their captivity.
The temple is located to the right of the road. For parking, it is more convenient to drive through the entire area and stop at the foot of the stairs leading up. Here is a guard on duty, who happily greets rare guests. The temple closes for visitors at 17 o'clock. There is nothing to protect here, obviously, such a schedule is associated with taking care of tourists, because in complete darkness it is much more difficult to move around in caves. To the left of the stairs is the lower church of the monastery, but the most interesting, of course, is at the top.
It seems that in the former time the monastery was a more well-kept and lively place. On the sides of the main staircase there are other, now half-abandoned tracks. Occasionally unusual jungle plants are found, apparently planted specifically in a former park on the side of a hill. Unfortunately, the history and traditions of this place are lost, like many other things in the history and culture of Cambodia, and for the well-being part of the population the words “history” or “religion” are nothing.
We rise to the temple surrounded by the jungle. Because of the trees, it is even difficult to photograph in full size.
From the temple, steps lead to the left to the White Elephant Cave, and to the right to two more small temples and a stupa. The topmost temple is built in an unusual style. It has a round shape and is decorated around with stucco bas-reliefs.
From the ramification of the stairs, another “secret” path with steps was laid, and in front of it there was a blue pointer with an inscription in Khmer. The track can be overlooked due to fallen leaves, but, nevertheless, it is thoroughly covered with concrete. On the path you can get to the two "secret" and little-known caves. Narrow entrances to the rocks are accompanied by specially constructed steps, which for some reason suddenly end in cliffs, leading “nowhere”.
You will find nothing special in these caves. Perhaps these are retreat sites for monks. But the White Elephant Cave deserves special attention because of its size, unusual shape and karst slack. In the midst of a sunny day, the entrance to the cave is like a portal that connects us to another unknown world. From here there is a view of the sea and rice fields. In windy weather, the waves walk across the green rice "sea".
It is better to have sports shoes for a walk through the cave. There is no electricity in the cave, but there are numerous holes in the walls of the cave through which sunlight penetrates. However, it is better to have a torch with you because with it you will feel more confident. Bats live in the cave, and if you are not good with these animals, then determine for yourself the threshold of sensitivity to a peep and periodic flickering of shadows. In the late afternoon, the activity of the bats is increasing.
The vertical part of the cave begins from the entrance, and the stairs lead down. No need to hurry, let your eyes get used to the twilight. This is an unusual sacred place, and you need to feel its energy and attract the local spirits to your side, then the bats will be nothing.
In the lower part of the cave the steps end, now only stones are under your feet. A bright light is visible ahead, there is an exit. At the next turn, it becomes clear why the cave received such a name. There is the White Elephant frozen in the form of limestone slate who is the owner of the cave. Be careful, the elephant is hiding. However, on the way back it is easier to find.
We approach the exit from the cave. Getting out of here is not so easy, because ahead is a sheer wall, on which you can climb, clinging to the sprouted tree roots. There is an easier way, it lies through the right side of the exit, although there is also a sheer wall there. On the surface, nothing interesting awaits us, just the jungle on the opposite side of the rocks. Therefore, if a small extreme is not interesting, then you can just go back.
Phnom Sorsir Temple is a place that deserves your attention, especially if you like caves. The White Elephant Cave is a beautiful and majestic "temple of nature", in which stalactite and stalagmite decorations are preserved. The distance from Kep is 10 km (from Kampot it is 20 km), the “last mile” on the dirt road is only 1.5 km. Introduction to the Buddhist spiritual values will fill your holiday with new energy and impressions.
There are prayer “places of power” in which people worshiped deities for many centuries. Most of these places are concentrated in the mountains, closer to the sky, away from the roads and settlements. Even the low mountains surrounding Kep are a concentration of amazing places, because here is the Samathi Pagoda with the center of Vipassana, the cave temples of Kampong Trach Wat and Phnom Chhngok.
And one more unusual temple lurking on the rocks surrounding Kep is Phnom Sorsir, as well as the spelling of Phnom Sorsia or Phnom Sor Sear. Here is White Elephant Cave, the length of which is several hundred meters.
The temple is located very close to Kep, it is only a few kilometers from the statue of the White Horse installed at the entrance to Kep. On the ring with the White Horse, turn left towards Kampot and drive about two kilometers to the tourist sign on a green background with the inscription “Phnom Sor Sear Pagoda”. After this, we turn right into the arch. The road is dirt, but, fortunately, to the temple to go only a couple of kilometers among the picturesque rice fields.
At the turn in front of the temple, an equestrian statue unexpectedly meets us. The monument is gradually overgrown with trees and there is no one to free the frozen warrior from their captivity.
The temple is located to the right of the road. For parking, it is more convenient to drive through the entire area and stop at the foot of the stairs leading up. Here is a guard on duty, who happily greets rare guests. The temple closes for visitors at 17 o'clock. There is nothing to protect here, obviously, such a schedule is associated with taking care of tourists, because in complete darkness it is much more difficult to move around in caves. To the left of the stairs is the lower church of the monastery, but the most interesting, of course, is at the top.
It seems that in the former time the monastery was a more well-kept and lively place. On the sides of the main staircase there are other, now half-abandoned tracks. Occasionally unusual jungle plants are found, apparently planted specifically in a former park on the side of a hill. Unfortunately, the history and traditions of this place are lost, like many other things in the history and culture of Cambodia, and for the well-being part of the population the words “history” or “religion” are nothing.
We rise to the temple surrounded by the jungle. Because of the trees, it is even difficult to photograph in full size.
From the temple, steps lead to the left to the White Elephant Cave, and to the right to two more small temples and a stupa. The topmost temple is built in an unusual style. It has a round shape and is decorated around with stucco bas-reliefs.
From the ramification of the stairs, another “secret” path with steps was laid, and in front of it there was a blue pointer with an inscription in Khmer. The track can be overlooked due to fallen leaves, but, nevertheless, it is thoroughly covered with concrete. On the path you can get to the two "secret" and little-known caves. Narrow entrances to the rocks are accompanied by specially constructed steps, which for some reason suddenly end in cliffs, leading “nowhere”.
You will find nothing special in these caves. Perhaps these are retreat sites for monks. But the White Elephant Cave deserves special attention because of its size, unusual shape and karst slack. In the midst of a sunny day, the entrance to the cave is like a portal that connects us to another unknown world. From here there is a view of the sea and rice fields. In windy weather, the waves walk across the green rice "sea".
It is better to have sports shoes for a walk through the cave. There is no electricity in the cave, but there are numerous holes in the walls of the cave through which sunlight penetrates. However, it is better to have a torch with you because with it you will feel more confident. Bats live in the cave, and if you are not good with these animals, then determine for yourself the threshold of sensitivity to a peep and periodic flickering of shadows. In the late afternoon, the activity of the bats is increasing.
The vertical part of the cave begins from the entrance, and the stairs lead down. No need to hurry, let your eyes get used to the twilight. This is an unusual sacred place, and you need to feel its energy and attract the local spirits to your side, then the bats will be nothing.
In the lower part of the cave the steps end, now only stones are under your feet. A bright light is visible ahead, there is an exit. At the next turn, it becomes clear why the cave received such a name. There is the White Elephant frozen in the form of limestone slate who is the owner of the cave. Be careful, the elephant is hiding. However, on the way back it is easier to find.
We approach the exit from the cave. Getting out of here is not so easy, because ahead is a sheer wall, on which you can climb, clinging to the sprouted tree roots. There is an easier way, it lies through the right side of the exit, although there is also a sheer wall there. On the surface, nothing interesting awaits us, just the jungle on the opposite side of the rocks. Therefore, if a small extreme is not interesting, then you can just go back.
Phnom Sorsir Temple is a place that deserves your attention, especially if you like caves. The White Elephant Cave is a beautiful and majestic "temple of nature", in which stalactite and stalagmite decorations are preserved. The distance from Kep is 10 km (from Kampot it is 20 km), the “last mile” on the dirt road is only 1.5 km. Introduction to the Buddhist spiritual values will fill your holiday with new energy and impressions.
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